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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.